Our Dachshunds are seen on a Regular basis by Our Vet Micheal Keese DVM

At Bakersfield Veterinary 

8610 Harris Rd      

Bakersfield, Ca 

       93313                 

 

We feed our Dachshunds Only the Healthiest and best premium dog food in the in the world click the link to read how Innova can  benefit your dog or puppy

   

100% human grade products very wholesome Ingredients perfect for all breeds ,No harmful chemicals or pesticides ,contains No wheat gluten

  

 

 

Happy Hips

• All-Natural Chicken Breast
• Cage Free Chicken
• With Holistic Benefits
• With Antioxidants
• With Glucosamine and Chondroitin

Chicken Breast Ingredients:
Chicken Breast, Glucosamine Hydrochloride, Chondroitin Sulfate, Vitamin E Supplement

Brush my Dog's WHAT ?  

What would happen if you stopped brushing your own teeth? Even if you only ate hard food as most dogs do, there still would be problems. You should be brushing your dog's teeth at least twice weekly, daily if you can manage it. It's not as difficult as you might imagine.

What are the benefits? Brushing removes the daily accumulation of plaque from the teeth. Even though dogs do not commonly get cavities, they do suffer from periodontal disease. If untreated the gum disease can lead to pain and loss of teeth.Lactoperoxidase system enhanced enzyme products - have antibacterial properties decreasing plaque (CET , CET Forte toothpastes, CET rinse, CET Chews, CET Spray-VRx .Use CET products together In combination daily to better fight plaque and gingivitis and eliminate odor and prevent gum disease Remember to visit your Vet regularly to have your dogs teeth examined you and you dog will be glad you did .

How to brush teeth? Step one is to pick an appropriate pet toothbrush. Save yourself time by not buying a child's toothbrush which is usually too hard for dogs. The ideal dog toothbrush will have a long handle, an angled head to better fit the mouth and extra soft bristles. Another option is the finger toothbrush that fits over the tip of your finger.

Step two is to select an appropriate toothpaste. The best pet toothpastes contain enzymes that help control plaque. Try to avoid toothpastes with baking soda, detergents, or salt sometimes found in human pastes. Fluoride may be incorporated to help control bacteria. Rather than placing the paste on top of the brush try to place it between the bristles. This allows the paste to spend the most time next to the teeth.

Step three is to get the brush with paste into your dog's mouth and all the teeth brushed. Most pets accept brushing if they are approached in a gentle manner. If you can start when they are young, it's quite easy, but even older pets will accept the process. Start slowly, you can use a washcloth or piece of gauze to wipe the teeth, front and back in the same manner you will eventually be using the toothbrush. Do this twice daily for about two weeks and your dog or cat should be familiar with the approach. Then take the pet toothbrush, soak it in warm water and start brushing daily for several days. When your pet accepts this brushing, add the toothpaste.

The toothbrush bristles should be placed at the gum margin where the teeth and gums meet at a 45 degree angle. The movement should be in an oval pattern. Be sure to gently force the bristle ends into the area around the base of the tooth as well as into the space between the teeth. Ten short back-and-forth motions should be completed, then the brush should be moved to a new location. Cover three to four teeth at a time. Most attention should concentrated on the outside of the upper teeth.

In summary, small animal home care should include daily (or at least every other day) brushing, using an enzymatic pet toothpaste. Taking an active role in the care of your dog's dental care will help reduce dental disease, bad breath and potential life threatening heart and kidney disease. Everyone wins.

Click here to purchase CET dental care products

The Dachshund is part of the Hound group. The Dachshund is a dog with Excellent problem solving abilities. The train ability of the Dachshund is Above Average. It was breed to be good for Family Pet, Hunting, Watch Dog The Dachshund lifestyle is Indoor living

The Dachshund is susceptible to genetic eye disease, disc and skin problems. It is important that when contacting a Dachshund breeder that you express health concern issues and ask the breeder what they are doing in order to help minimize them.

Country of Origin: Germany - developed in the middle ages for primarily tracking and searching. .

Breed: Dachshund

Also Called: Teckel (Miniature: Zwergteckel)

Height: The Dachshund is about 6 inches tall for the miniature variety; 8 inches tall for the Standard variety.

Weight: The Dachshund weighs between 16-32 lbs. for the Standard Dachshund, the Miniature Dachshund is under 11 lbs.

Colors: The Dachshund can be any color except for white.

General Appearance: The Dachshund is low to the ground, long in body and short of leg with robust muscular development, the skin is elastic and pliable without excessive wrinkling. Appearing neither crippled, awkward, nor cramped in his capacity for movement, the Dachshund is well-balanced with bold and confident head carriage and intelligent, alert facial expression. His hunting spirit, good nose, loud tongue and distinctive build make him well-suited for below-ground work and for beating the bush. His keen nose gives him an advantage over most other breeds for trailing.

Temperament: The Dachshund is clever, lively and courageous to the point of rashness, persevering in above and below ground work, with all the senses well-developed.

Care: The Dachshund is naturally free from "doggy" odor. They require minimal routine brushing to keep their coats healthy and in good condition. The long haired and wire haired Dachshunds may require extra grooming or help from a professional.

Health Concerns:

Training: The Dachshund is generally easy to train for the show ring, and many of them really enjoy showing. Must be socialized early to accept cats. Basic training tips Training a dachshund requires a fair bit of patience, firmness and consistency. Here are some exercises that will show you how to teach your dog what it should know to share your home with and to survive. How often? Try to limit training to about 5 minutes per session. Ideally you should have 2 training sessions per day. 3 training sessions would be even better. With each session work on a different area at each session. Basic dog obedience commands The very basic dog obedience training begins with leash training and heeling. Heeling is when your dog can walk by your left side without running forward. Once these basic commands are learned you can move on to learn the following: Walking on the leash Sit and stay Down and stay Heel Wait Come Training to use the leash The first step in training is for your dachshund to learn the right way to be walked on a leash. Even if you never intend on taking your dog for a walk (I hope that's not the case) you will have to take your dog to the vet at the very least. If you have a young dachshund, they will be reluctant to having their freedom of movement restricted by the leash. Instead of having the leash associated with this reduction in movement, teach your dog that the leash is a way of being with you and of going new places with you. In time the leash will come to mean a direct link to the master—an enjoyable event that your dog will become quite excited about whenever they hear the familiar jingle of the leash. In the initial leash training sessions, always do them in familiar places in a playful way. Keep these initial sessions very brief. The following assumes that you have already introduced your dog to a well-fitted collar. After hooking up the leash to the collar, let your dog lead you and don't pull on the leash or tug at it. If the leash tightens and your dog starts resisting, loosen up and speak in a soothing tone. Always remain calm, but firm, and in control of your own emotions. Start walking forward, encourage your dog to follow. When they do, praise them and give them a quick stroke along their side or pat their side. Avoid tapping them on the head. If your dog resists violently to the least despite all your coaxing, you'll have to gently pull the dog to you very carefully while saying good dog. When it finally comes, reward it with a little treat.* Once you dog feels comfortable on the leash you can proceed to other basic training activities. Leash walking OBJECTIVE: When done correctly the proper position for walking on the leash is to have the dog walking on your left side, close to your left leg. The dog should not be allowed to run ahead nor lag behind or dart off no matter what distractions occur. Use a leash and slip collar. Start with the slip collar and leash attached correctly. Hold the leash in your right hand. Stand next to your dog so you are both facing forward. Your dog will be on your left. Start walking forward slowly in a straight line leading off with your left leg. Always begin walking with your left leg as this will become a visual signal to your dog to move forward. You can also gently slap your left thigh with your left hand. As soon as your dog starts pulling on the leash, stop and pull the leash back towards you. Don't drag the dog back. Just stop. Wait until the dog stops, praise him and then continue walking. No command is necessary for now, you're just teaching some basic manners. Each time you start out again, always start with your left leg and slap your left thigh. As this exercise is mastered, add the verbal command "heel". Continue with this in short 5 minute intervals, several times a day. In less than a week your dog will be walking at your side comfortably without bolting ahead.

Activity: The Dachshund needs regular exercise because they have a tendency to put on weight and become lazy. They also need care to control their diet because they will eat whatever is placed before them.

Life Span: The Dachshund lives an average life of 12-14 years.

Litter Size: The Dachshund has an average litter of 3-4 puppies.

Country of Origin: The Dachshund originated in Germany.

Brief History: Germany is recognized as the country of origin of the Dachshund. The breeds rootstock is thought to be a dwarf mutation of the taller hounds of the true German type. As early as the 17Th century, the name "Dachshund" was applied to a breed type that encompassed smooth- and long-haired varieties. A third variety, the wirehair, was recognized in 1890. The name Dachshund is from "dachs," which means "badger," and "hund," which means "dog." Not only was the dog used to hunt badgers (as well as other small game), it's appearance was much like the badger's, being sturdy and short-legged.

Registries: AKC, CKC, FCI (Group 4), KC (GB), UKC

Character: The Dachshund is brave, intelligent and independent.

Temperament: This breed is somewhat reserved around strangers, but forms a strong bond with its family. It can be over-courageous around other dogs.

Coat: Can be smooth, long, or wire-haired. Colors can be reddish-brown, black or tan, or chocolate brown, or deep chestnut in reddish-brown and black and tan. The hairs on the Wire-haired Dachshund should lie flat and be as hard as possible. Separate coat patterns include: Solid, Dapple, Piebald, Wild boar, and Brindle

Care The Smooth- and Long-haired Dachshund should be brushed occasionally to remove dead hairs. Long-haired Dachshunds are prone to tangles, so they should be groomed more often. The coat of the Wire-haired Dachshund should be plucked twice a year.

Colour: Red, Black/Tan, Chocolate/Tan, Cream, Blue, Isabella. You can also have black, chocolate and Isabella/tan

Comments: Wary enough to be a watchdog, his devotion to his family is undying. Wirehair eds require much more grooming than other Dachs coats. Smart, but stubborn. Difficult to house train in bad weather. Independent nature. Great raised with kids from a young .

Please don't purchase your Dachshund from a pet store which commonly are known to support Dachshund puppy mills. Doing so only promotes improper breeding ethics and promotes current Dachshund health issues. The AKC, UKC, FCI, CKC, SKC, WWKC, FIC registries recognize the Dachshund breed standard.

 

Trademark Trait,

Long and short, Vigorous and muscular, Tenacious and high-spirited, Bold and clever, Love able,Loyal, Hard workers, Great players,

Some Ideal Human Companions,

Singles ,City dwellers  Families with older children ,Hunters and outdoorsy
Dachshunds may look cute and cuddly, but they are tirelessly energetic, clever and curious—some might even say “intense.” Always up for a walk, run or a game in the park, they can easily get bored when left to their own devices for too long. Sometimes, that can involve chewing things.

Though very loyal to their owners, Dachshunds can take time to warm up to other people. The benefit, however, is that their (sometimes) relentless barking at the sign of strangers makes them an extremely handy—and compact—guard dog.

Dachshunds, true to their hunting lineage, love the outdoors. With a decent-sized yard to run around, they will frolic: chasing small animals, fervently barking and possibly digging a few holes. They will also be happy in an apartment (they are among the most popular city dogs), but require lots of play, interaction and regular walks to stay in physical and mental shape.

Things You Should Know

Dachshunds are proud and bold. With proper attention, positive reinforcement and training, they will surprise you with a lovable and dependable temperament. They thrive with single people or families with older children. Very young children could lack the necessary patience and maturity required with Dachshunds.

Dachshunds are prone to back problems, due to their long spine and short rib cage. If allowed to jump down from a bed or couch, they can easily slip a disk. For this reason, it is also important to hold them properly, supporting their full frame. (Warning: You’ll find most Dachshunds will resist being picked up).

Also, be sure to ration their food appropriately: Dachshunds can gain weight quickly, causing more back problems and other issues.

A healthy Dachshund can live as long as 16 years, providing years of fun and companionship's.

Dachshund History

A breed dating back to at least the Middle Ages, Dachshunds—coming from the German dach, which means “badger,” and hund, which means “dog”—were used widely in 17th century Germany as hunting dogs. Their short, sleek frames and an incredible sense of smell allowed them to hunt above ground, below ground and track animals for days at a time. Various sizes were developed over the years—i.e., smaller Dachshunds for hunting foxes and larger Dachshunds for hunting boar—and in 1895 the Dachshund Club of America began to promote the breed in the U.S.

The Look of the Dachshund

The Dachshund “look” is hard to miss: low, long and short with a vigorous and muscular body that somehow stays solid and balanced in spite of its squat frame. Its elongated, convex head is erect and alert with ears that hang low and a pair of friendly oval eyes. The base of the neck slopes down to a protruding chest and a tighter abdomen, and the tail follows the line of the back. Dachshunds come in three varieties— smooth, long haired and wire-haired—and colors can vary from solids of red, tan or yellow or combinations of chocolate, black and gray (among others).

Feeding is one of the most important areas in an Miniature Dachshund development; it begins very early when the puppy is weaned and continues throughout its life. The food that a dog is given plays an important role in its muscle and bone development. When purchasing a puppy, it is important to find out from the previous owner what type of food the puppy was eating; any sudden changes in diet can cause digestive problems. If you wish to change its food to another well-balanced diet, do so gradually. Begin by mixing small portions of the new food with the one being replaced, until it is completely switched over. Remember to do this gradually, over a period of seven to ten days.
Thee amount of food that a dog eats and the number of times per day that a dog is fed changes as it matures. As a puppy, it should be fed small portions frequently. While it is young, the puppy's activity level is high and you will want to be sure that it is eating enough to develop properly and steadily gain weight. Basically, a Miniature Dachshund should be fed four times a day until it reaches three months of age. Between the ages of three to six months, give the puppy three meals a day, the portions being slightly larger than before. After six months, there should be two meals a day; and at one year of age, there should be only one meal. You could also feed your dog some dry biscuits in the morning and evening if it is having only one meal per day.
Once the Miniature Dachshund becomes an adult, it's important to keep in mind that it does not need to be given as much food; obesity can be a problem if not monitored closely. When your dog is a year old, you may decide to feed it in the evenings when your family has its meal. The dog's meal can also be divided into two smaller portions, one given in the morning and one at night. Never over-feed your dog; since it will not turn down food, it's up to you to monitor its eating habits and provide a reasonable amount. Remember to keep a bowl of fresh clean water near your dog's food bowl at all times.
In order to develop good eating habits, allow your dog its own dining area. Feeding times should be at the same time and in the same place everyday. Your dog's food and water should be served at room temperature so that the food is neither too hot nor too cold. Snack foods such as cake, chocolate, and other junk foods are not for dogs and should never be given to them. Other unhealthy foods include spicy, fried, starchy or fatty foods. Chicken, pork, and fish bones are very dangerous to a dog if eaten since they can cause intestinal damage and tear the stomach lining.
there are many good commercial foods on the market that are nutritionally complete for your Miniature Dachshund. Most of them contain the ingredients listed on the packages. Remember that providing a variety of meats and cereal grains is very important in maintaining a balanced diet for your pet. Your dog should get the daily requirements of protein, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, minerals, and water from its diet to develop properly. You may need to make some dietary changes depending on your dog's age, growth, and activity level; your breeder can assist you in making these adjustments, if necessary. If your Miniature Dachshund becomes pregnant or sick, the nutritional needs will change. Consult with your veterinarian to make the proper dietary adjustments; vitamin and mineral supplements can also be given.

There are a variety of feeding dishes to choose from hard plastic, stainless steel, and earthenware dishes, available in many shapes and sizes. Choose one that is large enough to hold each meal, but will not tip over or spill as your dog eats. It is very important to keep your dog's feeding and watering dishes clean on a daily basis. Once the dog has finished it meal, throw away any uneaten food and clean the dishes. They should be washed using hot water and soap, and then rinsed and dried.

We feed our Dachshunds Only the Healthiest and best premium dog food in the in the world click the link to read how Innova can  benefit your dog or puppy

Grooming can be a special time of bonding between a pet and its owner. Some areas of grooming include bathing, coat care, eye/ear care, and nail/teeth care.

Breed Information Dachshunds have very short legs and very long bodies. There are two sizes of Dachshund that are recognized by Kennel Clubs (see Size), and three coat variations: short-haired, long-haired, and wire-haired. There are also a variety of recognized color variations: Solid Dachshunds are either red or cream; Bi-colored dogs can be grey, black, or brown with spots of copper above their eyes and other specified locations (see Kennel Club specifications); Dappled, or Merle, dogs have a lighter shade of the same color dappled over their body. For example, a dark shade of grey base with light grey pattern. For wire-haired dogs, the “Wild Boar” color is most common, making the dog look slightly grizzled. The Dachshund has a long head with a long muzzle, ears that hang down to the cheeks, and dark, oval eyes.

Size:Standard-Height: 14-18 inches/Weight: 16-32 pounds Miniature-Height: Under 14 inches/Weight: Under 11 pounds

Breed Specific Health Issues  Dachshunds are predisposed to spinal difficulties dealing mainly with the discs. Serious cases are referred to as Dachshund Paralysis. Because Daschunds can easily become overweight, they are also prone to diabetes and heart trouble. Being overweight is a serious issue for these dogs as the extra weight puts added stress on the back.

Life Expectancy:The average Dachshund will live between 12 and 21 years I have been told .

Grooming Requirements:Long-haired Dachshunds require the most grooming, needing weekly, if not more frequent, brushing. Short-haired Dachshunds need only the occasional rub with a damp cloth to remove any loose hair and dirt, and wire-haired dos’ coats require stripping twice a year.

Your Miniature Dachshund should be bathed only when needed; too frequent bathing will dry out the skin and coat. Use a good shampoo which is veterinarian approved. Dry bathing your dog is another option. These products are sold at most pet stores and are applied by rubbing into the dog's coat; afterward they are brushed out. If you give your dog a wet bath, keep it indoors and protect it from any drafts until it coat is fully dry.

Most Miniature Dachshund love having their coats brushed and combed. They are usually easy to handle if you are gentle, taking care to not pull the hair. During the shedding season, it's a good idea to give your dog a hand massage in order to remove the excess hair; this should be done outdoors.

Check your Miniature Dachshund eyes and ears during the grooming process; the eyes should be clear and bright, and the ears should be clean. It may be necessary to clip some hair within the ears if there is not a clear air passage. Pay close attention to the ears; if you notice any redness, bad smell, swelling, or sensitivity to touch, contact your veterinarian immediately.

You should keep your puppy's nails clipped to ensure good foot development. Let your veterinarian show you how to do this so you do not clip too much. If you clip too far back, you may cut a vein and make the nail bleed. Be sure to have a good, sharp nail clipper to do this job. If it makes you uncomfortable or your dog will not cooperate, you can pay a professional groomer to clip the nails.

 

Exercise is an essential element in your Miniature Dachshund development, both physically and mentally. While it is important to monitor your dog's dietary habits and provide the proper medical attention, it is equally imperative to provide your dog with adequate exercise.
This is especially important if your dog is confined during the day, while you are at work or school. An allotted time should be set aside each day for exercise. A walk around the block or a game of fetch would be ideal; you can also jog or bicycle with your dog. Indoor dogs can be taken outdoors for exercise after meals; a housebroken dog will be accustomed to this arrangement and can gain some exercise time while taking care of its 'business.'
Familiarize your dog with a collar and leash as soon as possible. You might even allow your Miniature Dachshund puppy to wear the collar a few days before attaching a leash. If you take your dog on a long walk through the park or playground, keep it on the leash; the leash should be long enough to allow your dog sufficient room to run and jump. Also, make sure that your dog is wearing a tag or collar which identifies its name and address in case it were to become separated from you.
Always allow your dog some warm-up time before engaging in heavy play. Since most Miniature Dachshund are enthusiastic about exercise, you should provide ample time for activity and exertion. This enables a dog to look its best by staying in shape, and is a great form of stress or tension release.

Miniature Dachshund puppies rely on their mother's milk to provide protective antibodies. Approximately two weeks after weaning, their natural immunity begins to diminish; therefore, it is important to bring your puppy to the veterinarian for a check up and vaccination schedule. Vaccines stimulate puppies into producing their own antibodies; so all puppies must be vaccinated in order to protect them from certain diseases. Common diseases include distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvovirus, rabies, and coronavirus. Your veterinarian should be notified if you notice a loss in your puppy's appetite, any vomiting or diarrhea, or persistent coughing.
Parasites can also pose a problem for puppies; they can be either internal or external. Most of the internal parasites live in the puppy's intestine. Their eggs are usually transmitted through the soil from other infected feces. Some indications of internal parasites include vomiting, diarrhea, blood in the stool, poor appetite, lethargy, or weight loss. Thin spaghetti-like or short rice-like worms are also indications of internal parasites. A veterinarian can examine a sample of the puppy's feces to detect parasites.
External parasites such as fleas, lice, and ticks, can cause skin damage and can infect a puppy with disease. Lice are small insects that cling to the dog; infection is usually made by contact with other animals or an infected environment. Fleas feed on the puppy's blood and cause itching. Once a flea is swallowed, it can cause tapeworms. Ticks can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever as well as lyme disease. Ear mites can also pose a problem for your puppy; signs include scratching of the ears, shaking of the head, or dark earwax. It is best to seek the advice of your veterinarian to treat parasites, both internal and external.

 

Ask any dachshund breed owner and you'll find there's no other dog worth owning. Dachshunds are irresistible, charming, impish, and headstrong. Once bred for hunting, the dachshund now occupies thousands of hearts.

If you're new to the world of dachshunds, the first question you have is probably about their short legs and long bodies. This feature makes them truly unique in the dog world.

Stubborn dachshund characteristics (making them a little difficult to train) can be traced back to those days spent learning and evolving into being great underground hunters. If they were easily swayed, they couldn't have survived.

Today, not many dachshunds are called to go into the hole and face down a badger. Although they still have that hunting instinct, it is usually reserved for unfortunate rodents that wander into their domain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crate training your Dachshund puppy 

Crate-training is a basic principle based on a dog's basic instincts

Dachshunds are den animals—they like having secure, clean, semi-darkened nesting spaces, away from distractions and elimination areas. Crate-training utilizes this instinct to aid house training, provide security when you can not be around, and to give your dog a safe haven when he is stressed out. Crate-training is not punishment nor should it be used in this way.

Just a Few of the Benefits of Having a Crate-Trained Dog

He will be more comfortable during those frequent times during the course of his life when he will undoubtedly have to be in a crate - while at the animal hospital, on board a plane, etc.

Many groomers, pet-boarding kennels, and dog-approved hotels will feel better assured in knowing that a dog is crate-trained because it can usually be an indicator that the dog is a better behaved one.

When transporting your dog, he is much safer in a crate. If he is not crated and you get into an accident, he could become a flying object, possibly hurting himself and others. In addition, if he is not in a crate, he could wander away from the accident scene.

Sometimes when company is over it may be too "busy" for your dog. What a joy it would be for him to have the safe, quiet confines of his crate to escape all of the hustle and bustle.

With a properly crate-training schedule in place, the chances of your home being damaged by accidental soiling or destructive behavior are greatly decreased.

The crate is a safe environment for your dog when you can't be with your dog. Once your dog becomes accustomed to the crate, they think of it as their own safe den. Your dog will feel comfort in the surrounding walls. A crate is a place where your dog can go when stressed by any situation such as visiting children, noisy adults, or home activity increases. When in the crate, your dog should never be bothered, this is your dog's own little haven from stress and noise.

Dogs that suffer separation anxiety are ideal candidates for crate-training. Crate-training is also ideal if you're having house-breaking problems or just busy households. Crate-training also is ideal for young puppies who don't have control over their bladder and bowels yet.

How to start a crate-training program

Any age is a good age to start crate-training What differs is the time between day one and acceptance by your dog as their crate being a haven. Introducing your dog to the crate should involve a desensitization period, praise and rewards should be associated with the crate, and plenty of patience on your part. If you make the crate a place of desirability, your dog will start seeing it that way too.

When you bring your crate home, leave it somewhere your dog can investigate it at their leisure for several days with the door removed.

Try leaving one or two favorite treats inside, or a toy. If all else fails, climb in yourself (you might want to remove the top for this).

Once your dog's comfortable being inside, start feeding her meals inside the crate with the door still off. Praise and reward your dog for the few minutes they spend inside the crate. You will need to decide when your dog is ready to move on to the next step and it's time to start closing the door on her. The time is right when she's relaxed and confident in the crate with the door still open.

The next step is harder: close the door and shut your dog in. Don't make a big fuss when he goes in to eat. Just reach over and close the door. At this point, you can either stand there and wait or walk away, but not so far that you can't hear her. If she starts to cry, do not go and let her out. Wait until your dog settles down a bit, and when all is quiet open the door and let your dog leave the crate. Continue for a number of days.

If you've recently taken on a new dog or puppy and don't have time to spend a week or more getting your dog used to the crate, my first suggestion is to invest in some earplugs. My next suggestion is to wear your dog out physically before it's time for him to go into the crate. Play allot, he should be tuckered out completely and your dog should have emptied his bladder and bowels before attempting to settle in for the night.

Keep a new toy that he's sure to like for crate time if he's an older dog. It's important to remember to associate good things with the crate which is why a crate-toy should stay a crate-toy. If you feel the need to reassure your dog, just poke your fingers through the bars to allow him to smell you, but don't let him out if whining starts. If he does not settle down after a short period of time, take him out (yes contradicting, but you should be able to tell the difference) and take him to his potty spot to relieve his bladder. Don't play or cuddle your dog too much, just out to go pee, then right back in again. He needs to learn that night time is not play time. If you need to, set your alarm for about three hours into the night, and get up and take him out to avoid accidents in the crate.

Once you are past the first two or three nights, you and your dog should be comfortable with the crate and your nights will be easier. It won't be long before your dog is noticeably alerting you that he has to go and the length between trips will grow allowing all to get better rest at night.

Puppies

Teaching Him Where to Go and When

Upon initially arriving home with your new puppy, take him on leash to a pre-designated soil area that you've chosen outside. Use this area whenever possible, especially during the training process.

Patiently wait while he gets familiar with the new smells, and just AS he is about to go to the bathroom (he will start to walk in circles or begin to get into a squatting position), in a low but firm (and audible) voice use a one or two word command ("hurry up" or "go" works well). Doing this just before he goes will initially teach him the meaning of this word.

Once he goes, praise him like crazy. He will soon make the connection between the command and the actual eliminating, not to mention the fact that he has made you happy, which is a dog's ultimate goal.

Once he has become familiar with the command, start to use it as soon as you get to his soil area. This is a great technique when you do not have time to wait for him to go, or when the weather is not conducive to taking a long walk. Remember, praising him each time he eliminates in his outdoor soil area will quickly teach him that this is what is expected of him, and he will be happy to comply, provided that he has to go.

Making the Crate a Fun and Safe Place

Take him inside and introduce him to the crate in a fun way by throwing toys in the crate for him, using a one-word command for going in. One of the more popular commands would be "kennel."

Once he has gone into the crate, praise him like crazy, leaving the door open. Initially feeding your puppy in the opened crate will help to teach him that this is a positive place to be.

Find a safe chew toy or snack that he really likes and save that for his time in the crate. With perseverance, consistency and patience, most dogs can adapt quickly to their crates.

Keeping a Close Eye During Training Period

When not in crate, on lap, sleeping, etc., puppy should ALWAYS be where you can see him - on a six-foot leash with you at the other end of it. This is very important during the training period so as to ensure that he does not soil in an undesirable area or cause destructive damage to a favorite piece of furniture.

Consider a rug that has been peed on (or a sofa leg that has been destroyed) to be your fault for not watching puppy during this critical time of teaching him right from wrong.

When he does something that is unwanted, clap your hands very loudly (this will startle him into immediately stopping) and then calmly use the leash to either bring him out to his soil area, or to find him something more constructive to do. Again, do not forget to praise him once he is doing something that you consider desirable.

Very Important: When you cannot watch your puppy, he should always be in his crate but no longer than two-three hours during the puppy training stage.

The First Night During the first night, your puppy may cry, whine or even howl. This is not only because of being in the crate; he is alone for the first time in his life - away from mom and littermates. Some Suggestions to Help During the First Night

A hot water bottle to substitute the warmth from the bodies of the littermates that are no longer with him.

A ticking clock may assist in making the puppy comfortable as it has been reported that it sounds much like the heartbeat of the mother (or a littermate).

You may want to put the crate next to your bed for the first few nights or, if puppy is very noisy, in a room far away so you won't hear him.

Teach him not to cry in crate by helping him to associate his noisiness in a negative but gentle way. Try shaking a cleaned out soda can (hiding it behind your back or under the blankets so that he does not know it is you making the noise) that contains a few pennies taped inside. As soon as puppy stops crying, stop the shaking. He will soon learn that when he is quiet, all is quiet.

Do Not Ever...

...use the crate as a punishment tool. It should be a fun, happy place. Always send him into his crate using a positive, upbeat voice.

...let your puppy out if he is making noise. This only teaches him that making noise gets him out of the crate. You may have to buy earplugs for a few nights. If you think he may have to go out wait until he is quiet for a minute and be right there to open the door and let him out.

...leave puppy unattended. He should be in crate with door closed whenever he cannot be watched. This will ensure that he and your home are safe.

...leave collar or harness on dog while in crate.

...hit your puppy.

...verbally scold when finding accidents in the house. If you do not catch puppy in the act, then scolding will only do more harm than good. Consider it a lesson learned - on your part.

...use a heating pad, which is a danger if chewed or when wet.

...praise unwanted, negative behavior! This is a no-no as they will forever associate their crying with being praised. Instead, ignore or use a learned command to correct the bad stuff and then once the pup has corrected it himself, praise him. Dog's way of thinking: "If mom is praising me for being a brat, then I will be a brat more often!" (negative reinforcement). "If mom is praising me for doing good, I will try to do good, provided that I know what is expected of me" (positive reinforcement). Remember that dogs always want to please in a way that seems most pleasing to their owners. Praising only the good things will teach them right from wrong quickly and efficiently.

General Training Tips

The crate should be big enough for your dog to comfortably sit, stand and turn around in, but not big enough that he would be able to mess at one end and sleep at the other.

Repeat, the crate should never be used as a punishment tool. This does not mean that you are not able to use the crate for time - out periods. It just has to be done in a positive manner. Always make the crate fun. Never scold him before putting him in. Even if upset with puppy, keep your voice low but firm, using a cheerful tone when giving your puppy his learned command to go into the crate.

Initially practice during the day so as to have puppy quietly used to it in time for bed. This should help to ensure a restful night's sleep. Caution: The first few nights (or even weeks) might be anything but!

If pup goes to the bathroom in his soil area, he should be free of any accidents, provided you do not give him water or food. This is a good time to allow him to be with you at a watchful range. If he has not gone while outside, he should not be allowed to be with you but instead should return to his crate. Repeat: do not let on that you are impatient or unhappy; the crate should always be a positive place for him to learn and grow. Leave the room, and then try again in approximately thirty minutes. Repeat this method until he has gone to the bathroom in his soil area. Puppy should quickly learn that when he goes, he gets to be with you.

Pup also needs to learn to be part of the family. Crating him on a daily basis, with door closed, should only continue until he is fully free of soiling or destructive chewing. Until such time, keeping him close to you via a collar and leash will allow him to feel like a valued member of the family, and will help you in the bonding process.

Being consistent in your training times will really get your dog on a solid schedule. If you crate, exercise, and take your puppy outdoors at roughly the same time every day, he will quickly know what is expected of him. The same especially applies to feeding and watering at the same time each day.

Make it a habit to always take puppy out to his soil area directly after exiting the crate.

The best method is to take pup out first thing upon arising from bed, then feed, water, let him rest in crate for 30 minutes (while you get ready for work) before taking him out to his soil area, and playing with him for 10 minutes before bringing him to crate. Repeat these steps every two to four hours. Evenings can be spent with you provided that both you and pup are at both ends of the six - foot leash while preparing dinner, watching television, studying, etc. During times when pup cannot be watched closely (while in shower, on telephone, etc) or where he may be underfoot or in harm's way (frying foods, friends bring their adult dog or rowdy children, etc), pup should ALWAYS be in crate.

During training, water should be eliminated three hours before bedtime. If he is thirsty, give him ice cubes instead.

A puppy should never be in his crate for too long. Undeveloped eight to ten week old puppy bladder muscles can usually hold urine NO longer than three to four hours at a time.

In the beginning, you may be taking the puppy outside every 2 hours. As the puppy gets older, the time between outside visits can be decreased.

Never let pup soil in his crate for this will only lead to severe housebreaking problems as an adult. For those unable to exercise pup every three to four hours, consider hiring someone to come in at midday, or confine him to an area with newspapers that are located OUTSIDE of an opened crate.

Never put newspaper inside of crate. Because breeders often use newspaper in their kennels, pups will probably associate them with being allowed to eliminate.

Because every dog is different, crate bedding does not always work. With most dogs, bedding works just fine. However, some will eliminate on the blankets as they will associate the nice warm blanket or pad as a place to soil. If this is the case, take the bedding out for a few weeks, and then try putting it back in. If the problem re-occurs, bedding must be totally eliminated during the crate-training process. Also, chewing blankets can be a danger in the crate. One such incident involved a dog that chewed a hole in his blanket and then got it tightly wrapped around his leg. When the owners arrived home the circulation had been cut off to the foot and the leg was swollen. This dog was fortunate as no injuries were sustained.

If possible, initially practice crating while at home so that puppy does not associate having to be in there only while you are gone.

When pup is being a real pain or has made a huge mess in the house (and it needs to be cleaned up), be near the crate with some treats in your hand. Call the dog, give him his command in a positive tone (despite how you may be feeling at the moment) to go into the crate. Once he is in, give him the treat and shut the door of the crate. Do not scold pup for the mess, for he has forgotten what he has done, and thinks he is getting the treat for going into the crate.

There may be days when you are painting or doing some other chores that could be dangerous to the dog if he is out and about. Just grab some kibble, a favorite toy and let the crate be a safe place to stay until it is safe to let him out.

Keep the location of crates in a central part of the house, where the dog can be with you and family. Multiple crates are often used in more than one section of the house (bedroom, living, family room, kitchen, etc.) so that the dog feels like part of the family while confined to his den."

Some dogs are more comfortable (and quiet) with their crates covered.

Follow the same crate-training procedures for any setbacks in urination or destructive behavior.

Sample Crate Schedule for those home

During the intitial stages of crate-training, following a strict daily schedule will help to expedite the process of housebreaking your dog.

The following sample schedule works well for those home full-time during the training process:

8:30 AM: Upon waking up in morning: Leash-walk dog to soil area. Return to house, serve food and water in crate, then let the dog rest for thirty minutes in crate.

9:15 AM: Return dog to soil area on leash. If after ten minutes he has yet to do bathroom duties, return to crate for ten minutes before returning him to soil area. The purpose of this is to let your dog know that he is only outside to do his business. Play with your dog for thirty minutes after he has successfully done bathroom duties, then return to crate for approximately an hour and thirty minutes.

11:30 AM: Provide dog water, bring to soil area, following the same instructions above if he does not go. Once he has gone, and you have spent thirty minutes playing with your dog, return to crate for an hour and thirty minutes.

1:45 PM: Provide dog water, bring to soil area, following the same instructions above if he does not go. If crate-training a puppy, feed second of three meals, let the dog rest for 30 minutes in crate before returning to soil area. Once he has gone, play for thirty minutes, then back to crate for an hour and a half.

4:00 PM: Provide dog water, bring to soil area, following the same instructions above if he does not go. Once he has gone, and you have spent thirty minutes playing with your dog, return to crate for an hour and thirty minutes.

6:15 PM: Provide dog water, bring to soil area, following the same instructions above if he does not go. Feed dog supper, let him rest for thirty minutes in crate before returning to soil area. Once he has gone, and the family dinner is done, allow your dog to be with the family until bedtime, provided that he can be watched at all times and will not be underfoot.

Older Dogs

Older dogs can be more difficult to crate train, but again, consistency, perseverance and patience are the keys to success. Follow the same instructions and tips as above using the additional advice included below. Because every dog is different, you must act and react according to their needs as well as their learned (and unlearned) behavior.